Some people will refer to twist as 'feathering'. I just keep it simple with twist or twist angle. The below image of the NZ Women K4 shows the blade in the water is square with the side of the boat while we see the leading edge of the blade in the air. If there is no twist we see the front face in the air, parallel to the blade in the water.
It is not simply what feels best, like everything else about selecting and setting up your paddle, twist impacts your stroke and how easily you can achieve your best mechanics. It was clear I needed to correct the twist, and that would mean taking the blade off the shaft and re-gluing it with a more appropriate angle.
Since these paddles were for many people with many abilities, I needed to determine what angle to set the twist. So, I did what anyone would do, ask the experts. I spoke with all the national team coaches I could reach and contacted paddle makers who service top athletes. Although I expected to get some differing opinions, after speaking to those that operate at the top-level and service top international athletes, the answers were remarkably consistent.
Answer: 60 degrees minimum & 85 degrees maximum.
Notice that although some of our advanced paddlers may insist 15 degrees is best, most top paddles are not set with angle markers below 50 degrees. This is in itself a good hint of the target range. Surfski paddlers may be select the lower end of this range while sprint racers are in the mid to high range.
New and un-balanced paddlers tend to be arm dominated with very little hip and torso movement. Also, the paddle tends to stay close to the water. For a paddler who sits still in the seat of the kayak and mostly faces forward, the paddle angle should be low. For a beginner, a near zero-twist paddle lets the blades enter the water squarely. So, if this is your desired style, a zero-twist paddle will help make it easy.
Here is an image of a break-apart paddle connection made for novice and casual touring paddlers. For the casual fitness or touring paddler, racing techniques are not required so lower twist angle is expected. See in the image, angle markers are provided between 0 and 60 degrees.
Racing paddlers don't sit still in the seat. Advanced paddlers perform tremendous body rotation, movement on the seat and little swing from the shoulders and arms. Rather than facing forward, they rotate aggressively, driving the stroke from the legs; they exit the water higher and closer to the body. The paddle enters the water close to the boat and under the paddler's weight. With this rotation-based style of stroke, the angle must be greater, so the paddle blade enters the water squarely.
Paddlers naturally will adjust their movement, so the paddle blade enters the water square, or else they risk falling in or at least a messy stroke. Setting twist angle should be done to promote rotation. However, we must be careful not to over-do-it and assume a beginner should go directly to a high twist paddle; after all, there is that little thing called balance to contend.
Progressing from a low-twist style (arm dominated - swinging) to a high-twist style (hip dominated - rotation) requires comfort to be able to move in the seat, and this means better balance. Balance develops with practice as the paddler challenges him or herself over months and years. However, I suggest you keep in mind the kind of boat you are in as well. If you are in the most tippy boat, you may be unlikely to do much more than move your arms. A more stable boat that matches your balance will help your ability to take a more rotation-based stroke.
OK, I won't get side-tracked on the importance of matching the 'right boat for the paddler', here is what I determined and what I did with the paddles.
I set all paddles at 60 degrees to encourage more rotation but not beyond the beginners' capacity. For those with private paddles, I measured the twist to matched their ability. Break apart shafts made twist modifications more manageable. However, we did find many paddlers had not assembled the blades correctly, and the markings did not match the true twist.
TIP: When assembling paddles with adjustable shafts and angle markings, set the paddle with zero-twist and ensure the 0-marker is in line; when the zero-angle is correct everything else should be too. I have seen coaches, without a paddle angle jig, hold the paddle against a wall so that the edge of both blades presses against the wall the same. This makes a good zero-twist approximation.
After becoming more aware of the twist and making adjustments over time, I found many of my paddlers seemed to settle in the 72-80 degree range and not need to progress past this to achieve their best stroke. Like everything in sports, equipment and movement style must be individualized. Finding the angle that not only allows but promotes the desired style takes some experimentation. I hope what I have said here provides a starting place for the process.
Happy paddling!
Mike Robinson - Chartered Professional Coach
]]>Lets take a closer look.
Imagine an old school house clock, now imagine it flopped down on its side and it resting on the kayak seat with 12:00 pointing forward. The centre of the clock is the steal rod. The outside of the clock represents the path of rotation around the centre of the clock (the rod).
Below is the clock image showing the path of the paddlers hips as they rotate on the clock. The first image has the paddler sitting in in neutral position, facing forward with both hips and knees even. The next at the exit on the right side and the third, at the exit on the left.
Eirik Verås Larsen (Front View - slow) from Coach Mike on Vimeo.
Happy Paddling,
Coach Mike
What do I mean by task? It is more then just moving the boat. We all have our own best style, one that is matched to our body size and natural movement abilities. Therefore we should have the paddle that helps us maximize our personal best style.
A paddler selecting a paddle should do so with a specific technical adjustment in mind and match the paddle shape to best accomplish this. We all strive to constantly make adjustments to become more efficient on the water. Each modification and adjustment we struggle with can be hindered or helped by the paddle shape we select.
Tear Drop Paddles have much of their surface area near the tip. This means you can get a good hold on the water very quickly rather then needing to wait for the paddle to fully submerge for a 'firm water' feeling. Basically this helps you get a good thrust into the boat early in the stroke. Below are 5 Jantex blade shapes along the continuum from the more evenly distributed (parallel edge) shapes to the very aggressive (tear drop) shapes.
Twisted Blades are paddles that progressivley twist from the blade stem to the tip. The greater the twist 'within the blade', the quicker the paddle will want to exit (pop out to the side). Paddles with little twist within blade will generally stay closer to the side of the boat longer. Below we can see the difference. Selecting a paddle that favours early exit or later exit will depend on what element of the stroke is more important to your style.
To be honest most of us don't think about this nearly enough and we often try to force a paddle to move in a way it is not designed for. A very good paddle is only good if it helps you paddle they way you want. For example if you and perhaps your coach are working to keep your paddle in the water longer. For a more evenly distributed stroke you may be best matched with a parallel edge design with little twist within the blade. However, if you are looking for a paddle to grab the water early and exit quickly the aggressive tear drop and extreme twist in the blade may be best. Choosing a paddle to fit the design of your stroke style or strategy is important. Choose poorly and it will make your task more difficult rather then help your success.
My advice is to ask what part of your technique you are struggling with most. Selecting the paddle designed to help be successful in the element you are trying to modify makes sense.
I don't want to comment on blade size too much as this is largely depending on strength and size of the paddler. However, I suggest that selecting the size of blade is a lot like selecting the gear on a bike. You can select a light gear and accelerate very quickly but then end up spinning at high rates or you can select a very heavy gear that may see you hit higher speed, if you have enough strength, but take longer to accelerate. In a bike you may have many gears and are able to start light and shift to heavier gears. But paddling is more like having a bike with only one gear. In this case you need to choose wisely. You may get some hint to adjust your blade size based on a review of your race performance. If your start ability or acceleration is poor then perhaps try a slightly smaller blade or a shape that exits quick so you can take another stroke sooner. If your travel speed in the middle is too low or you need a very high cadence to hold it then perhaps select a larger blade.
Select the paddle for your needs not only one that you see another paddler use. That may work for them but not be the best for you. We are all different. If you are working with a coach it is wise to reflect back on what they are most telling you to fix. Select a paddle that targets the problem, that helps the solution.
Something to consider.... please consider it.
If you have any questions I am happy to lend advice where I can.
Enjoy your paddling!
Mike Robinson, Chartered Professional Coach.
info@thepaddlehut.ca
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Among others, paddlers like Fernando Pimenta, Emanuel Silva, João Ribeiro, Diogo Lopes, who paddle with the same kayak model.
Our new K1 SONIC should make you question what kayak you need to lead. It can be your LEVERAGE! IS BETTER AND FASTER!
Follow the evidence. CHOOSE THE BEST!!!
]]>ThePaddleHut started in 2004 when I was searching for appropriate sized equipment for my team. Specifically I was looking for small racing kayaks and paddles that actually fit smaller, lighter athletes. After a lot of searching I found ELIO making great boats for this group. Since there was no dealer in North America we started to bring them in.
Since then I continue to coach and search for great equipment for my teams. When I find good boats, paddles and gear that we can't easily get locally I add it to my store.
We provide equipment for both novice and champion athletes. I invite you to browse the items on this site. If you have any question please feel you can send me a note at info@thepaddlehut.ca If you are not sure on sizing or if the paddle, boat etc is right for your experience, build or style feel free to ask for advice. I will give my best opinion.
If you can not find what you are looking for I may still have it but it may not be listed on the web store. Send me a note and I will check what we have in storage or try to find another source for you.
Happy Paddling!!!
info@thepaddlehut.ca
Mental Training Exercises:
Thank you Imre,